Here is the final line-up. From my previous posts leading up to this, I was influenced heavily by 90s skater girl sundresses, the movie Clueless, and Spanish toreadors (bull-fighters).
The reason the collection is called ‘Melamine’ is due to the plastic baubles in the accessories, which would be made from melamine. The yellow-gold you see is meant to be brass, so there would be a heavy weight to the accessories and trims, which would result in a lot of swinging action on the runway, together with the flouncy movement of the short skirts.
I took the knee-high socks a step further, first with the two-tone colour combinations, and then later with the lace-up stitching. The lace-up stitching has been in my mind ever since I created my ‘Helmut Lang Genius’ board on my pinterest account, which has this image here:
After combining that style together with what I thought would work well with a bullfighter’s pant that you tighten by adjusting the laces (which would cause the ruching), I then decided to bring the lacing into the rest of the pieces at various seams. When I finished, I realized that the lacing bore a strong resemblance to Nicolas Ghesquiere’s Spring 2008 collection for Balenciaga.
Rather than a stiff structure that is placed on the body, the dresses would be soft and squishy, something between a neoprene and an athletic wear supplex. The pants would be a very soft, almost drapey but strong viscose/cotton blend. I’ve always been pretty obsessed with fabrics that are cool to the touch.
As for the all-over prints, I suppose you could argue that they’ve been done to death. I feel like there is still a place for them, done in a different way than the hyper-architectural body-mapping/reflecting prints that we’ve seen until now. Like those innocent daisy print sundresses from the 90s, kind of an update to that.
The colours, especially the mint and the pastel eggplant, have been long-time favourites. I see the mint as almost neon-bright. And then, bam!, clashing them with a hardcore bright red as well as a super blue cyan. I wish I could spit out some very intellectual reasoning behind my colour choices, but I just went with what felt right. I’ll have to psychoanalyze later, but right now I need to get back to my friend’s wedding stuff.
Also, I will be putting up more of my process sketches very soon.